How We Package Your Batteries

We recycle cardboard to create a weave pattern for our packing materials. This provides better protection for your product than traditional packing materials and helps us reduce waste. Batteries are particularly heavy and are prone to crushing packing peanuts or popping the plastic air pillows you’ve seen in other packages. Cardboard is built and rated for its ability to withstand the rigors of cross-country shipping.

However, this may leave a coating of cardboard dust on your merchandise. To prevent this, we will also place batteries in a paper bag or wrap it in recycled brown paper to keep it clean. Our batteries are shipped brand new, and we certainly want them to look that way when you get your order!

See our shippers hard at work!

If you are interested in joining us in our recycling efforts, you may return your old battery to us in the same box. Your battery will be recycled, and the box and packing materials will be reused for a future order. Learn more about recycling batteries at Battery Mart.

Just Arrived: Yuasa YUA1P2AMPCH Battery Charger & Maintainer

Yuasa YUA1P2AMPCH Battery ChargerCheck out our newest arrival to Battery Mart!

We are proud to offer the Yuasa YUA1P2AMPCH Battery Charger. This is a 12 volt, 1.2 Amp automatic battery charger from the world’s leading manufacturer or powersport batteries. It is an upgrade to Yuasa’s YUA1201000 12 volt, 1 amp battery charger, providing 20% more charging power than before.

Since the YUA1P2AMPCH is an automatic charger, you’ll never have to worry about overcharging your battery. Once your battery is fully charged, the charging will automatically switch to maintenance mode. This will keep your battery topped off without any interaction on your part. Your battery will be ready to go when you are!

image of the charging leadsEach charger includes a full set of charging leads:

  • A set of ring terminals
  • A set of clips
  • A 12V plug (also known as a cigarette plug)

The cable from the charger has a quick-disconnect so you can easily attach your charger to your battery. A common use is to bolt the ring terminals to your battery and leave them attached at all times. When you’re ready to charge your battery, simply connect the charger’s quick-disconnect cable into the leads and plug the charger into the wall. When you’re done, you can just disconnect the charger from the leads and let them hang off the battery until you need them again.

Because Yuasa is known for the best powersport batteries on the market, they are meticulous in the design for the chargers they make. Yuasa understands the needs of the market and have built a charger to meet your expectations.

We enthusiastically recommended the Yuasa YUA1P2AMPCH battery charger and maintainer to all powersport owners. Whether you are charging a motorcycle battery, ATV battery, or even just a common sealed lead acid battery, we encourage you to check out this charger!

Recommended for maintaining all sizes of powersports batteries and for charging deep cycle batteries up to 12 Ah.

Order today and get free shipping. Check out the Yuasa YUA1P2AMPCH!

Just Arrived: Power Sonic Hyper Sport Pro Lithium Batteries

We are proud to announce we are now stocking select lithium batteries from Power Sonic from their Hyper Sport Pro line. These are premium batteries for all Powersport applications, such as motorcycle, scooters, UTVs & ATVs, and personal watercraft. We are offering these batteries at great prices with free shipping.

About the Hyper Sport Pro Series

The Hyper Sport Pro series are made for Powersport enthusiasts who demand the very best riding experience. With a combination of its Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) chemistry and its active battery monitoring, these batteries offer 4 times longer life, 4 times faster charging, at 4 times less weight. More power, better starts, at a fraction of the weight.

At the center of every Hyper Sport Pro lithium battery there is an integrated active management system that monitors and reacts to a variety of different situations: changing voltages, currents, and temperatures to maximize your battery’s performance, life, and safety. With the push of a button, conveniently located on the top of the battery, you can see a fast, accurate state of charge.

The Power Sonic Hyper Sport Pro is one of the safest lithium batteries available and is a ready to go replacement & upgrade from lead acid, AGM, and gel batteries.

What are the key benefits for Power Sonic Hyper Sport Pro batteries?

  • Ultra-lightweight – up to 4 times lighter than equivalent-sized lead-acid batteries. For example, the PALP-20LHY weighs 3.2lbs. Our Big Crank ETX-20L (our most popular 20L size battery) weighs 17lbs. That’s 13lbs lighter!
  • Faster charging – charges up to 4 times faster than lead-acid batteries.
  • Maximum cycle life with over 2,000 recharging cycles.
  • Can be mounted in many positions (except upside-down).
  • Long shelf life with very low self-discharge.
  • Integrated active management systems keeps the battery safe.
  • Upgrade to original equipment – meets & exceeds OE specifications.
  • Easy fitment – Simply install and you are ready to go.


Item #: PALP-14HY
12.8 Volt / 48 Wh (3.75 Ah) / 280 CCA
• Dimensions: 5.90″ / 3.42″ / 5.70″
• Warranty: 2 Year
Price: $149.95
Item #: PALP-9HY
12.8 Volt / 36 Wh (2.8 Ah) / 210 CCA
• Dimensions: 5.90″ / 3.42″ / 4.13″
• Warranty: 2 Year
Price: $124.95
Item #: PALP-20LHY
12.8 Volt / 72 Wh (5.6 Ah) / 420 CCA
• Dimensions: 6.89″” / 3.42″ / 6.10″
• Warranty: 2 Year
Price: $239.95

*Note: Product pricing is accurate at time of posting and prices may have changed. Current pricing can be reviewed before ordering.

Can you use any 12v battery on a motorcycle?

Unfortunately not. At least not practically. There is no “one size fits all” battery for motorcycles and the motorcycle’s battery compartment has limited space.

However, it is easy to figure out what battery you should get for your motorcycle!


Most motorcycles are going to use a 12 volt battery. There are some older, vintage models and dirt bikes that will use a 6 volt one, but modern bikes typically have 12V batteries. 12V motorcycle batteries are built to supply enough power to start the engine and operate all the modern electrical accessories.

The essential things to know are:

  • Dimensions (length, width, and height)
  • Cold cranking amps (CCA)
  • Amp hour capacity (Ah)
  • Terminal configuration (which terminals are positive and negative)

Your original battery might have some of these printed on the battery or a sticker.

Big Crank Motorcycle BatteryIf you have your original battery, you should measure it – length, width, and height. For replacing your motorcycle battery, the dimensions are important. Motorcycles have limited space to work with and manufacturers include the battery’s physical size in their designs. It’s important that your new battery can fit where it needs to be installed.

The cold cranking amps is another important specification to be looking at. It refers to how much power will flow in cold weather conditions to crank your engine. Larger engines typically require more power, so it’s simple to compare against your old battery. If you are replacing a 300 CCA battery, you’ll know you should be looking for a battery that’s close to that.

The battery’s capacity is also a specification to make note of. This measures how long the battery can supply power before it needs recharged. If your bike has electronics and accessories installed, power will be drawn when the alternator isn’t charging (when idle).

It’s not necessary to replace your battery with the most CCAs or Ahs possible. You might end up spending more money on a more expensive battery that won’t even use all the extra power. It’s a good idea to match what your original battery’s specifications.

The last thing to watch out for is the battery’s terminal configuration. You’ll want to be sure that if your original battery has the positive terminal on the right, the new battery also has it on the right. Otherwise, you might find your cables are too short to reach that extra distance across the battery to make their connections.

If you don’t have the original battery or the owner’s manual for your motorcycle, there are ways to get the correct battery for your bike. We have an online motorcycle batteries lookup to narrow down which battery you need. This is based on manufacturer recommendations and information, so you can be sure you’ll get the right battery for your needs.

How do I know when my rechargeable battery is at the end of its life?

You just charged your device, but it’s already running low. You used to get 6 hours out of a charge and now you’re only getting 90 minutes. These situations are common in our daily lives. However, before you discard those batteries, let’s learn how to check their condition.

There are two common indicators that your rechargeable batteries need replacing:

  1. The battery has been used extensively over a few years, and it’s lasting a fraction of the time that it used to.
  2. It’s taking significantly longer times to fully charge.

Rechargeable batteries are most commonly worn out by three things: number of charging cycles, heat, and age.

You should expect 500-1000 recharge cycles out of any given battery before you’ll see noticeable degradation. Once you’re hit this many cycles, you can reasonably assume that the battery is at the end of its life. And, rechargeable batteries work best when kept around 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 degrees Celsius). Keep them out of direct sunlight when charging.

However, there are some indicators that might suggest the battery and the device might not have great contact.

  • The charge never completes or takes a much larger amount of time (2 to 3 times longer than the normal charging time).
  • When the battery drains quickly, but it’s only been used (recharged) a few times.

In these cases, the best course of action is to clean the battery terminals and the charger connectors. A microfiber cleaning cloth will work, and isoproyl rubbing alcohol is typically safe for cleaning electronics without leaving behind moisture and other residue.

It is worth noting, though, your phone’s battery is also affected by how you use your phone. Things like the apps you install, the stuff you collect, the number of ads you’re exposed to on websites, the number of notifications you received, whether you are using WiFi or data all effect how much strain is put on the phone’s battery. The more you ask your phone to do, naturally will cause it to deplete faster.

Can I mix old and new batteries?

Short answer: Don’t.

It can be tempting to only swap out only the battery that’s died, but you shouldn’t. It’s like trying to write an essay with your non-dominant hand: You might technically be able to do it, but you’re not going to like the end result.

So, replace all of the batteries at the same time. Using only fresh batteries together will maintain their lifespan and is much safer.

Remote with Batteries
See this remote with two different batteries? Don’t do this!

For example, your TV remote uses two AA batteries and is dying. You only have one fresh battery on hand. If you only replace one of the batteries, the good battery will not last. The new battery will have to work extra hard to meet the power demands of the remote, which will shorten it’s lifespan significantly.

Also, that dead battery still in the remote? It runs the risk of overheating as the fresh battery works. The reason for this is the fresh battery is delivering large current into a dead battery that has high resistance. This causes excessive heat to build up. This is explained by Joule’s law, the relationship between electrical power and thermal (heat) energy.

Two fresh batteries avoid this as they increase in resistance together as they deplete, limiting the current the batteries are supplying. Most batteries are designed to be safe under these conditions.

So, just replace both of them and save yourself some grief!

We recommend using batteries from the same brand, too, since there can be small differences in the voltage and capacity of the battery. AA alkaline batteries are rated at 1.5 volt, but this number is an estimate. Some manufacturers could round up from a number like 14.9 volt, and then another could round down from 15.2 volt. It’s a small difference, but this electrical imbalance could negatively affect performance.

How to Maintain and Protect Your Motorcycle Battery

One of the most overlooked aspects of motorcycles is battery maintenance. For many, there is a time during the year you put your motorcycle away for storage for a few months or let it sit inactive for a longer period of time. This can be a huge problem, as batteries don’t respond well to inactivity.

Motorcycle batteries tend to last between 3 and 5 years before needing to be replaced as long as the batteries are properly maintained. As with any battery that sits for longer periods of time without being used such as sitting through the winter months, the battery naturally loses charge over time & will build up sulphation on the battery plates. The sulphation will cause your battery’s run-time, performance, and life to noticeably decrease. In the more advanced stages, the battery can be difficult or even impossible to charge or start your motorcycle. Sulphation is the number one reason for premature battery failure.

However, you can prevent this from happening and ensure that your battery holds up after inactivity.

Use an automatic battery charger/maintainer: These units plug into standard 120VAC outlets and provide your battery with a charge current. This will keep the battery fully charged and maintained so that sulphation never builds up. It also helps towards breaking up loose sulphation that already may be present. Automatic chargers like the BatteryMINDer by VDC or Battery Tender by Deltran are perfect for these applications since they can be left connected to your battery all the time. Both of these brands can maintain your batteries in ways that prevent damage by keeping sulfation from building up on the battery plates and by keeping the battery fully charged. It is always recommended if you’re using a maintainer on any wet battery to make sure you monitor the water level of the battery. It is also advantageous to remove battery cables from the battery as this eliminates any possible draws from the battery while charging.

Keep your motorcycle battery in top shape: There are many types of batteries, and the two most common types for motorcycles are conventional (wet) and dry AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. If you have a conventional wet battery, you’ll need to keep an eye on your fluid levels and add distilled water as needed. A wet battery’s biggest drawback is the battery acid which can evaporate if it sits for longer periods of time, especially if connected to a battery maintainer for that time. If you have a wet battery where you can check the fluid levels then you should always do so and keep the fluid levels topped off.

The positive and negative connections on any battery (wet or AGM) should always be kept cleaned to ensure maximum transfer of electrical charge. There are special products that are made just for this type of maintenance, although using water and baking soda is effective for most people. You should also clean your terminals with cleaning chemicals and protect them with a corrosion preventative.

Do not let your motorcycle battery freeze: Whenever you decide to store your bike’s battery, be sure it’s in a place that does not consistently fall below freezing. This is an extremely quick way to find yourself with a cracked battery. If you keep a battery maintainer connected to your battery, this also helps work towards keeping the battery from freezing.

By properly maintaining any battery you can greatly enhance battery life which can result in having a working battery for years to come.

Should I store my batteries in the refrigerator?

We’ve all heard the myth that storing batteries in a refrigerator prolongs their life, but is this really true?

The short answer is that we recommend not doing it.

The best way to store your batteries to get the maximum shelf life is in a clean, dry, room-temperature (68°F to 78°F or 20°C to 25°C) environment. Temperature has an impact on a battery’s shelf life and the hotter it gets, the faster your batteries lose their charge. Storing primary batteries (D, C, AA, AAA, 9 volt) in a cooler environment slows down this rate of discharge that all batteries experience even when not in use, hence a longer shelf life. However, very cold temperature storage can be harmful to batteries if condensation results in corroded contacts or seal damage due to extreme temperature storage. The condensation and humidity in your fridge can negatively impact or even ruin your batteries so it’s very important that they are stored in a dry place.

When a battery is not being used, the electrons inside can flow out of the battery which will drain their capacity through a process called self-discharge. The higher the temperature, the more the free flow of ions or self-discharge from the battery. When stored properly, the discharge rate of a single-use alkaline & lithium batteries is only about 1%-3% per year. Lithium-ion batteries which are found in cell phones, laptops, and some power tools only have a self discharge rate of about 5% per month when new. However, several years ago rechargeable batteries like NiCd (nickel-cadmium) and NiMH (nickel-metal hydride) could lose as much as 20%-30% of their capacity per month. At that time, storing these types of rechargeable batteries in the refrigerator seemed like a great idea to slow down this process. Within the past 10 years there have been significant improvements in rechargeable batteries and the discharge rate is only about 15% per year now. Instead of storing them in the fridge, it’s recommended to just recharge them.

By storing your batteries in the refrigerator you can potentially ruin your batteries just to squeeze a very small amount of life out of them. Purchase a battery organizer and keep it in a clean, dry, room temperature environment and not in the fridge or freezer.

Selecting the Correct Power Inverter

A power inverter converts 12-volt DC power from your batteries to 120-volt AC to power your standard appliances. Planning to take a camping trip? If you do not have easy access to AC power, how long can you go and how much can you power? What power inverter is the best size for you and what should you consider when looking to purchase a power inverter?

First, make sure you have enough power. Inverters are rated in watts, and almost all electrical appliances have a corresponding rating. (chart below)

Next, choose the right batteries. One of the most crucial factors of the success of your installation is your choice of DC power source.

Conventional starting batteries are not the recommended for power inverters. Power inverters require batteries designed for deep discharge/recharge cycles during normal operation. Starting batteries are made to deliver a very fast “starting” burst of power to start an engine and are then recharged by the vehicle’s charging system. Deep Cycle batteries are made to be deeply discharged and recharged multiple times without causing any damage to the battery. Deep Cycle batteries are usually rated in Amp Hours. Amp Hours provide a rating of how long the battery can supply power over a certain timespan.

To determine the battery capacity and inverter power you will need, you’ll first add up all the wattage requirements for each appliance or device you’ll be powering. If the item is listed only in amps, just multiply the amp draw by 120. Then, determine the length of time each item will be powered by the inverter & battery it is connected to. Multiply [Required Watts] by [Hours Run] for each item, which gives you the watt-hours required for each. Add each device’s watt-hour requirements together for the final, total watt-hours you will need. Divide your total watt-hours by 120 to get your amp hour requirement.

When choosing your battery, a good rule is to use one with a total capacity (Ah) that is at least twice your amp hour requirement. This will give you some wiggle room if you need more run time than you are expecting. This will also prevent your battery(ies) from completely discharging which will increase battery life and longevity.

When you are using multiple batteries to power the inverter, you should ensure that all of the batteries used are the same manufacturer, type, capacity, state of charge, and age so the system will perform in a stable manner. In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel, or series/parallel, replacement batteries should be the same size, type, and age. Do not put a new battery in a group that is several months or years old. Replace the entire group or add a good used battery.

Lastly, purchase a good battery charger to fully charge your batteries back up after they have been used with your inverter.

Wattage of Common Appliances

Cell Phone50
Ceiling Fan75 – 120
Coffee Maker800 – 1200
DVD Player35 – 100
Gaming Console100
Hair Dryer900 – 1600
Light Bulb (incandescent)100
Light Bulb (fluorescent)25
Microwave Oven1500 – 2000
Mini Christmas Lights (50)25 – 75
Computer + Monitor125+
Laptop25 – 150
Laser Printer850 – 1300
Satellite Receiver10 – 25
TV (Flatscreen)65
TV (25″)300
Toaster800 – 1500
Toaster Oven1500
Oven (convection)3000+
Vacuum Cleaner1225 – 1500

Testing a Motorcycle System for Current Drain

Make sure your digital multimeter is set to DC AMPs which is “A” and “-” for VDC. Connect the black (negative) wire to the “com” (common ground) input and plug the red (positive) wire into the lowest amp input. If the current drawn is more than your multimeter low setting, move to the high setting.

Switch everything off on the bike such as the lights and radio. Turn the motorcycle off.

Disconnect the negative battery lead. Connect the negative multimeter Lead to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the negative lead you removed from the battery does not touch anything grounded, like the bike frame. Connect the positive lead from the multimeter to the negative lead you removed from the battery. You should now see current drain measured in amps.

The acceptable amount of off-key drain depends on the motorcycle’s onboard electronics and accessories. A factory service manual should list how much is permitted.

Start to unplug the fuses on your motorcycle. If the reading on the multimeter does not change, plug the fuse back in and move to the next one. If the current reading goes to zero or drops significantly on any, you have found what is creating the parasitic draw.

Look at your user manual to find out what is powered by the fuse that is causing the draw. The repair will be determined by what the issue is, but at least you now know what it is.

If a parasitic drain is identified, then leave the battery disconnected until the issue is fixed.

See our Multimeters & Battery Testers